So, some explanation of the image above. To the left you have the nit legend, the entire range from 0-10000 nits with some arbitrarily chosen numerical levels. I call 0-100 nits the "SDR range" and the map is adjusted so that range is only blue(ish), and the rest of the colors start from there. It means images will generally be mostly blue and a lot less rainbowy than the particular example above, but I've chosen this in order to create some separation, which I'll come to shortly.
- Peak: of course the most interesting value and pretty obvious, the highest nit value found in the image.
- Avg: the average nit value across the entire image.
- Avg SDR: the average nit value across the entire image with a modest tone-mapping and clipping applied around 100 nits, essentially the average of the "SDR" part of the image.
- Input: whether the image is HDR from UHD or SDR from regular BD, because I also have a path for those, which brings me to the second part of the analysis.
When trying to explain what HDR is or isn't to people not in the know, the standard mantra has often been some variation of "HDR doesn't mean the entire image is brighter, it just means the parts that should be brighter will be" except that didn't always turn out to be true. Akin to the loudness war in the music industry it seems some studios just could not keep themselves from pushing the entire image to excessively bright levels, hence "torch mode" UHDs. Despite their otherwise excellent quality Sony for some reason seems to have been the main offender on their catalog titles, though not the only one.
A few reasons why having an average brightness that's too high is bad:
- It's just plain too bright for dim/dark room viewing and causes eyestrain. HDR by its nature is also not very filmic and in my opinion you do lose a bit of the movie magic, but when the entire image is constantly bright it really brings attention to the fact that you're being blasted with light from an electronic screen.
- You lose out on potential contrast, the reason for HDR in the first place. A particularly bright highlight won't have as impressive of an effect if the rest of the image is already pushing the brightness high.
- Tied to the above it's especially bad for OLEDs and lower-end sets. An already high average brightness could mean the limiter doesn't allow the brighter highlights to reach the levels they should be at.
- With SDR and it's relative scale it's more straightforward to fix if it's not right—change the backlight in either direction and it'll change in a linear fashion, generally not affecting other stuff too badly. Things are more complicated and more blackboxed on the HDR side with its absolute scale. It's not obvious if or how messing with the controls might adversely affect the tonemapping, gamma, peak brightness or something else in a way that wasn't intended. Add to that things like Dolby Vision which on my set behaves completely different from HDR10.
- It's just annoying when some titles are very bright and some aren't. The reason things like ReplayGain exist on the audio side.
I'm not sure why they would even do it in the first place, the only things I can think of is that they're trying to impress ignorant people, or they listened to early complaints about HDR being too dim during daytime viewing. I think both are loads of crap, the first because this is supposed to be a premium format for enthusiasts, the second because why even care about critical viewing and UHD and HDR when you have the sun shining brightly through the windows? That's going to a poor experience no matter what. At the very least it should not take any kind of precedence. Sony et al, if you're listening: Stop mastering your HDR titles so damn bright!
Los cuidados son tan simples como el sentido común. No hay que "tener miedo", tan solo unos cuidados lógico que se tienen hasta con los LCD:
1) No abusar de la luz trasera/luz oled en SDR (que es el principal fallo que suele cometer la gente, por desconocimiento)
2) No combinar la anterior con el uso continuado de un elemento fijo durante periodos prolongados todos los días durante semanas y meses (ejemplo, una cadena de TDT 8 horas al día durante semanas con la luz trasera u oled al máximo, resulta fatal)
3) No combinar lo anterior con un modo de imagen "agresivo" (modo vivos, o subir el color mucho)
4) Variar el tipo de imagen, para que siempre haya "algo nuevo" en el panel
5) NO desenchufar el televisor. Dejarlo SIEMPRE en Standby. Esto es crítico en los OLED, tienen un sistema de compensación que se autoejecuta cada 4 horas y analiza el voltaje de los diodos led y los homogeniza (ergo, elimina posibles retenciones antes de que sean fatales)
6) NO debe darle la luz directa del sol. Sobre todo cuando está apagada, porque si está en pleno proceso de ciclo de compensación puede generar unas "manchas" que parecen retenciones pero que se eliminan al siguiente ciclo.
7) Seguir las recomendaciones y consejos de guías de ajuste de contrastada solvencia, no las de cualquier desconocido que te suelta un montón de números sin saber exactamente para qué valen.
Puede parecer "abrumador" pero estos consejos son aplicables a cualquier pantalla, sea OLED o no
Switching our attention to HDR (High Dynamic Range) video, we measured Rec.2020 color gamut coverage to 71% and peak brightness to 740 nits (smaller than 20-25% APL). High luminance in HDR scenes is typically reserved to small segments in the picture so despite much discussion about the ABL (automatic brightness limiter) in self-emitting displays such as OLED this is not a big concern - although further improvements are of course welcome
But there is an ABL (Auto Brightness Limiter) active at all these LG OLED TV's for the purpose of preventing them to consume too much power when displaying content with preponderance of bright elements, and protecting internal components from overheating.
The impact of the ABL, however, is limited to high-APL content such as hockey and winter sports during which can be observed a brightness reduction as the APL increases.
APL is the average level brightness (Luma) of the total numbers of pixel of a video image frame; defined as a percentage of the range between blanking and reference white level.
Vaya la ignorancia pues eso es atrevida. Lo chicos de Rtings ya comentaron sobre volumen de color que por cierto término que entró para salseo en HDR por la marca Samsung
¡Hola cómo estaís!. El concepto es simple y aceptable: cuando dices lo que les gusta escuchar, te aplauden, pero cuando dices lo que no les gusta escuchar, vamos pues que te insultan. Es lo que tiene la carencia de argumentos ó fundamento.
Sobre la teoría del color algo más de Steve.
"And to end, a question regarding colour perception, for those of you Home Cinema enthusiasts...
You watch a new film release in the cinema, in digital projection, using a DCI-XYZ colour space envelope for projection, containing DCI-P3 imagery.
You then purchase the same film on Bluray, and watch it on your Rec709/BT1886 calibrated Home Cinema environment.
Do you perceive any loss in image colour fidelity, assuming the Bluray master has been generated correctly?
The reality is there are few colours in the natural world that exist outside of the Rec709/BT1886 gamut. Colours that do exist outside Rec709/BT1886 gamut tend to be man-made colours, such as neon signs, and the like..."
Agregáis a ello que un UHD HDR correctamente calificado muchas veces más de 90% del contenido, está inserto dentro los niveles de luminancia SDR. No esperéis un skin tone a 1000 nits.
Un saludo.
Hola el hilo es OLED el post. Estamos debatiendo sobre color, volumen de color en OLED. Bueno de mi parte te habéis ganado un reporte.¡Hola cómo estaís!. El concepto es simple y aceptable: cuando dices lo que les gusta escuchar, te aplauden, pero cuando dices lo que no les gusta escuchar, vamos pues que te insultan. Es lo que tiene la carencia de argumentos ó fundamento.
Sobre la teoría del color algo más de Steve.
"And to end, a question regarding colour perception, for those of you Home Cinema enthusiasts...
You watch a new film release in the cinema, in digital projection, using a DCI-XYZ colour space envelope for projection, containing DCI-P3 imagery.
You then purchase the same film on Bluray, and watch it on your Rec709/BT1886 calibrated Home Cinema environment.
Do you perceive any loss in image colour fidelity, assuming the Bluray master has been generated correctly?
The reality is there are few colours in the natural world that exist outside of the Rec709/BT1886 gamut. Colours that do exist outside Rec709/BT1886 gamut tend to be man-made colours, such as neon signs, and the like..."
Agregáis a ello que un UHD HDR correctamente calificado muchas veces más de 90% del contenido, está inserto dentro los niveles de luminancia SDR. No esperéis un skin tone a 1000 nits.
Un saludo.
Aburres tio , aburres, quedate en EOL recomendando a la gente que se compre NANO CELL de 1000 euros en lugar de SONY Xh90 o SAMSUNG Q80T por 800 y 900 euros, a ver si con suerte LG te ve, siente pena y te regala una NANO.
Pesaooo que eres un pesao, este tema ya se trato hace un mes o mas no voy a volver a esto, si te aburres tanto pues buscate una vida , pero una que no consista en lamer el culo de una multinacional, que pareces to...
Eres un meme andante, que triste
OLED bien calibrado usado en postproducción grading HDR, parecido al monitor de 35 000 euros suena genial.
Bill Ferwerda colorista de la empresa Company 3. Empresa que entre los trabajos realizados está UHD HDR 1917, lo dice de un LG OLED en la siguiente entrevista.